line of the frames. Remove all the excess plastic, but do not remove the
frame numbers if they are outside the body plan itself. Tape the half of
the body plan that is right side up to a sheet of paper. Turn the second
copy over and carefully line the mirror image. Tape in place. Repeat the
process for the other end of the ship. Make sure the reproduction master
you have just made has
a clear center line, waterline and a hard bottom
line.
Using the formula shown in the Scaling section, calculate the beam
of the ship. Consult your construction rules to determine the thickness of
balsa sheeting allowed on your ship. Determine how much to enlarge the
body plan. If thescale hull size is 5 inches and you are allowed 1/16 inch
balsa subtract 1/8 inch (.125) off the side to side dimension and divide by
the measured dimension of the original plan set.
4.875
Divided by the plan set dimension (4 inches)
4.875 divided by 4 equals 1.21
Set copy machine to enlarge 121%. Run off at least one copy for
every frame needed. You now have full size frame patterns to use as
cutting guides. You should also copy the bow and stern profiles.
The method of construction used here does not require the use of a
full length keel. The rigidity provided by the keel will be transferred to
the hull bottom. Some ships may need a small short keel in the stern to
ensure the hull us correctly shaped.
Normally I use a solid piece of plywood for the bow that runs aft and
attaches to the first transverse frame.
For building the frames and sub deck on most ships I prefer to use
1/4 inch marine or aircraft grade plywood for several reasons. The glue is
waterproof, the wood has more plys and there are almost no voids. It is
simply stronger and better wood.
My preferred method of ship building is upside down on a building
board. For me the board of choice is a fir 2x8. The board should be flat,
smooth, a few inches longer than the hull and at least an inch wider. A
center line should be clearly marked on the board. On the sides of the
building board insert dowels or screws about every three inches. These
will anchor the rubber bands used to hold the subdeck in place during
construction.
The subdeck plywood should be at least1/2 inches wider than the
largest frame.
Draw a center line the full length. I/4” from the end of the board draw a
line across the full width of the subdeck. This is the bow and the point
from which all future measurements will be taken.
On the plan set draw a vertical reference line from the bow to
intersect the line that locates the frame stations just below the keel.
This line is the same as the first line drawn on the bottom of the subdeck.
Using the scaling formula plot out all frame locations on the bottom of the
subdeck.
From the vertical reference line on the plans measure the distance
to the first frame. Be as accurate as possible. Now work the formula.
the dimension in 1/72 scale.
Measuring from the reference line plot this measurement on the
subdeck. Using a square draw a line all the way across the subdeck.
Number this line with the frame at the center line. Repeat this process
until all the frames are plotted and located on the bottom of the subdeck.
